This post is sponsored by HomeRight.
I’ve been working on my living room, and I’ve showed you the progress in several locations. As a very quick recap, this is the same wall when I started:
I started with a trip to Home Depot and bought crown molding to go around the tops of both Billys, base molding to go around the bottoms of the Billys (although only the front and one side of each, since they sit flush against the TV unit), and lattice molding to trim the sides of both Billys and the tops. While you should absolutely measure on your own first, because I am known for being a really terrible measurer, here’s my supply list (the links will take you to the exact item I bought):
- Crown Molding 12′ (I had some leftover but I always struggle with crown molding and wanted to have extra inches in case I messed up my cuts. Three cheers that I didn’t this time–I can’t tell you how often I’ve had to run back to the store for more molding!. You can cut this in two 6′ sections to get it in your car.
- Base Molding 4″ and I bought 8′
- Lattice Molding approximately 31′ (can be cut into two 32″ sections and four 76″ sections)
- A quart of paint to match the Billys–take a shelf in so they can color match it. I used an eggshell finish and interior latex paint.
- a tube of caulk
I measured and cut all of my moulding pieces, then painted them, and then installed them into place. I then filled nail holes, caulked, and patch painted as needed. I’ll go into more detail about the measuring and cutting in just a minute, but for the painting I used my HomeRight FinishMax Pro to give all of my (pre-primed) trim a quick coat of paint, and it was lightning fast. I also gave the TV unit a quick coat of paint because it’s just a slightly different finish than the Billys (go figure!).
My highly professional spray paint set up:
I added the base moulding first, using a straight 45° angle. You’ll need to notch the side piece to fit around the shoe moulding (also called quarter-round) if you don’t plan on removing it. The Billys are constructed with a notch in the back of the bookcase so they’ll sit flush against the wall. Since we’re renting and we didn’t want to pull off the shoe moulding or the baseboards, I just used a hand saw to notch our baseboard and then sanded the edge.
Use your nail gun to fix the baseboard in place. Your moldings should line up pretty well; but you’ll use caulk and paint to fill in the imperfections when you’re done with the project.
The next step is to add lattice moulding to the top of the bookcases in preparation for the crown moulding; if you skip this step your crown molding will not sit flush against the front of the bookshelves.
Cutting crown moulding is always tricky; if you think you’re doing it exactly backwards from what you should be doing, then you’re probably doing it right! I will say that I only cut ONCE for this project–a new record! This is one of the best videos that I’ve used on how the process works, and I was able to cut my angles without coping them.
Unless you want to lose your mind, you should always cut all of the angles from the same continuous piece of crown molding. So, one 6′ piece for the one bookshelf, and one 6′ piece for the other. You also might not want to cut crown molding with your husband, unless, of course, you never argue.
This isn’t a bad joint for a DIY’er:
I added the lattice trim last of all, on the sides. This just gives the illusion of the bookcases being thicker and more substantial.
Then I filled the nail holes with spackle, the cracks with caulk, and painted a top coat.
That’s it! And since the pieces aren’t attached, we can reconfigure the setup in our next house if we need to.
We haven’t gotten our books out of storage yet, but they’ll be moving into their new home very, very soon!
As promised, here are the other posts on this room update:
Thanks for stopping by-